I read through Tom Colicchio’s Thinking Like a Chef this week, and the one thing that really stuck out to me is his aversion to high heat cooking. For a lot of people (myself included) the zenith of protein preparation is a ripping-hot cast iron skillet and a ride in the oven to finish. This high heat cooking imparts a great crust on the meat but at what cost? Colicchio is a firm believer that a patient roast is the way to go in terms of texture preservation and heat control, and from what I’ve seen I’d have to agree.
High heat isn’t required for browning meat (most taste-enhancing reactions happen after 300°F), but it does increase your chances for success—the heat rapidly evaporates surface moisture and lessens the effects of humectants. For people who are all about the crust the negative effects of high heat (drier/tougher protein structure) are worth it, but there’s a reason sous vide cooking is so popular in gourmet restaurants: texture matters.
To test his approach I made a simple pork loin: trussed into a uniform cylinder with kitchen twine, rubbed with kosher salt and cracked black peppercorn, and browned on all sides in a medium-high heated pan. After the meat was browned I reduced the heat to medium-low and allowed the pork to roast gently. Halfway through cooking I added some beurre fondue and a bit of fresh sage to the pan and basted the meat with this liquid. The pork was pulled at 145°F and I made a quick pan sauce with shallots, white wine, and chicken stock. After a quick rest & slice I took a bite and was quite pleased with the result: tender, juicy, delicate pork. Even unbrined this 30 minute pan roast was up there with any loin I’ve had—and it was done in a style I’ve really come to appreciate: simple preparations of quality ingredients.
